When I asked Rory, my husband and partner in these retirement frolics, where he'd like to walk, he answered without hesitation "Bleecker Street" and I knew why. It is because Rocco's, one of Greenwich Village's finest Italian bakeries, is on Bleecker Street.
It seemed like as good a goal as any for our walk and, even if we had been there many times before, it still gratifies. There I found the best iced decaf cappuccino ever
and Rory brought home a fine selection of cookies.
We took the #1 subway to Christopher Street, walked to Bleecker and traveled east across 6th Avenue. Bleecker took us to Macdougal and from there we continued east on Houston, south on Broadway, and east to Mulberry. We then walked south on Mulberry through Little Italy's line of Italian restaurants, then took Mulberry to Canal and finished up going west to Canal and Broadway to pick up our subway.
Along the way, we passed some of Greenwich Village's and Little Italy's remaining Italian food landmarks including Ottomanelli's meats, there since 1900,
John's Pizzeria, on Bleecker since 1929,
Raffetto's pasta, established in 1906 (their fresh pasta is available uptown at Zabar's on Broadway at 80th Street--Zabar's, of course, is worthy of its own post),
Piemonte Ravioli, there since 1920,
and Alleva Cheeses, a New York institution for over100 years.
For our purposes, however, we will concentrate on the big three bakeries: Caffe Roma, Ferrara, and Rocco's plus Di Palo's specialty store.
We love their homemade ricotta and mozzarella, and their many pastas, including fresh fettuccine and raviolis. Ask them to grind their Parmigiano Reggiano for you.
If you have followed this path, you're very tired now and you need a break. Stop briefly at the venerable Ferrara's on Grand Street, there since 1892, and have a pastry,
Or drop in at our other favorite, Caffe Roma on Broome Street, less touristy and offering the same great pastries it has had since 1891 plus a fine variety of espressos and cappuccinos. Try the lighter Italian cheesecake made with ricotta instead of cream cheese.
Greenwich Village and Little Italy's original populations have migrated and much of their original ethnic savor is gone, but with these landmarks in mind, you can find and recreate the wonderful tastes of the past. The prices are still low and the food as good as ever. Take a long walk and enjoy them. It's a tough job, but somebody has to do it.
Did I miss your favorite? let us know.
#retiredinnewyork
#newyorkitalianpastries
#bleeckerstreet
#littleitaly
#cafferoma
#dipalos
